Beijing

Four years ago, when I visited the United Kingdom, I took with me a packet of Chinese green tea. I had noticed how often my English hosts drank tea, so I made some of that green tea for a friend working with the BBC. The guy, one of the nicest persons I've ever known, offered his compliments, but declined a second cup, and quickly went back to his English style black tea made in Nepal.

I stayed enough to understand my English friend, and grow used to the taste of that black tea. It was a necessary antidote to the local cuisine. It is certainly a matter of habit. But, no offence, many Chinese tea drinkers would have considered that tea undrinkable without milk and sugar.

The Chinese prefer the original taste of their tea, and their teas do not mix with anything else. When it comes to high quality tea, the requirements are so strict that only the first, or the second, tea leaves on the branch are used.

It was not until recently that I realized China produces not only the best green teas, but also the best black teas in the world, mostly in South China. Actually, there is so much effort involved in the making of these teas, that some of these are too expensive, and therefore not widespread except in the local regions.

My favorites are South Guangdong's Fenghuang Dancong (凤凰单丛phoenix single cluster), and Fujian's Yan Cha (岩茶rock tea), both belonging to the oolong category. They have a strong fragrance that leaves an unforgettable first taste. And rock teas are the best for weight loss, among all teas.

The Chinese People's Association for Friendship with Foreign Countries is organizing a Chinese tea event on Sunday afternoon in Xicheng district. Diplomats and their wives from more than 10 countries have been invited to attend.

The lecturer, Zhao Yingli, happens to be a good friend of mine. Many people in Beijing's teahouse circle consider Zhao one of Beijing's best tea masters. It was not until I met him that I realized, Chinese teas are comparable to the best wines in the world in terms of taste, variety, and cultural background.

A modest man, Zhao is a prominent trainer of tea ceremony performers in Beijing's teahouses, and has worked as tea culture advisor to such major teahouses as the Lao She Teahouse, and Bi Lu Xuan. He does not only have a good understanding of the cultural background of Chinese teas, but also knows how to distinguish tea quality. Best of all, he knows how to make a good cup of tea.

Recently, Zhao published a very good book about Chinese teas and tea making. He has just returned from a three-week tour in South China and East China's tea-producing regions. The topic of his lecture will be how to enjoy a good cup of tea. He will interact with participants and help them learn how to make three teas: a green tea, a oolong tea, and a black tea.

The new green teas of the year come to the market at the end of March and early April. New oolong teas can be seen at the end of April and early May. New rock tea will not come to the market until end of May and early June, and some until August. New jasmine tea will come in August, for that's when the jasmine flowers bloom - in summer. But for oolong, aged teas of two to three years taste best.

Here are three tea stores, and some teahouses in Beijing to start your exploration of Chinese teas.

Suzhou Brothers

The store sells the best green teas, and jasmine tea from Suzhou of Jiangsu province. The store offers Su Meng Hao (苏萌毫), a reasonably priced, high quality jasmine tea. 9am-8pm. F1-16# Cha Yuan Tea City, South Entrance of Maliandao, Xuanwu District. 5269-0489. 宣武区马莲道南口茶缘茶城一层F1-16#

Ancient Scent Tea Shop古岩芳岩茶专卖店

The shop specializes in rock tea, a full-bodied oolong with a lasting aftertaste. Some rock teas that one can start with are Rougui (肉桂natural cinnamon fragrance), and Shuixian (水仙natural narcissus fragrance). No 28, 3/F Jingmin Tea City, Maliandao, Xuanwu District. 5193-8785. 宣武区马莲道茶城三层28号

Duo Jie Cha Bang多杰茶邦

The store provides Feng Huang Dan Cong (凤凰单丛phoenix single cluster). Ask for those aged from two to three years. Pu'er, Tie Guan Yin (iron Kwan-yin), and rock tea are also available. No 6 Eastern Building of Cha Yuan Tea City, Maliandao, Xuanwu District. 5180-9327. 宣武区马莲道茶缘茶城东楼6号

Teahouses

Bi Lu Xuan (house of the green dew) (碧露轩茶艺馆(国际俱乐部店): Small, but elegant, and with plenty of traditional Chinese elements. 1/F Apartment sector, St. Regis Hotel Beijing, 21 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. 6532-7008 朝阳区建国门外大街21号国际俱乐部饭店公寓1楼

Yi Qing Quan (pleasing green spring) 怡青泉茶艺馆: This resembles a Suzhou mini-landscape park, with streams and the owner's collection of treasures. Southeast corner of Madianqiao on North Third Ring Road, 2 Dewai Dajie, Xicheng District. 8207-6012. 西城区德外大街2号(马甸桥东南角)

Bi Shui Dan Shan (green water and red mountains) 碧水丹山茶艺馆: The name implies its origin in Fujian, South China. So does the dcor. To the west of Yuetan Police Station, Yuetan Nanjie, Xicheng District. 6805-0066. 西城区月坛南街月坛派出所西

Peng Lai Xian Jing (a drink to your friend first) 朋来先敬: Dcor resembles Fenghuang, an ancient town in west Hunan province, a famous resort in the region. 34 Guangximen Beili, Xibahe, Chaoyang District. 6448-1803. 朝阳区西坝河光熙门北里34号

Wu Fu (five happiness) Fuchengmen branch 五福茶艺馆(阜成门店 ): This started the trend of fine teahouses with tea ceremonies in Beijing. It is still one of the best. Bldg 3, Fuchengmenwai Dajie, Xicheng District. 6803-6467. 西城区阜成门外大街3号楼

Long Tuan Teahouse 龙团茶苑: Longtuan is an ancient tea presented to the emperor during the Song Dynasty. Green bamboos, vine chairs and sand pots are characteristic of the place. Beijing Media Center, B11, Fuxing Lu. 6851-4422 ext 1832. 复兴路乙11号北京梅地亚中心

Spice night

Enjoy a spicy buffet feast every Monday evening at Scene a Caf, China World Hotel, prepared by Sri Lankan-born Chef de Cuisine Chandana. There is a delicious mingling of flavors and spices, such as chillies, cinammon, saffron, and many more, in seafood, salads and meats. 6505-2266 ext 35

Pair food with Grace wines

Join master chef Tian of The Great Wall Sheraton Hotel Beijing and Judy Leissner, president of internationally renowned Grace Vineyard at the 21st Floor Chinese Restaurant on the evening of May 22, 2008 to learn about how to pair Chinese wines with Cantonese and Sichuan cuisines from an 8-course menu. Call Tina Luo at 6590-5566 ext 2121

A free lunch for your mom

Sofitel Wanda Beijing's Vic offers a free brunch for moms on May 11, for a minimum of three people per table, including two adults and one mother. 8599-6666

Dragon Boat Festival Celebration

Celebrate Dragon Boat Festival at Sampan Restaurant, Gloria Plaza Hotel Beijing, to sample our delicious pork dumplings, red bean paste dumplings or special Cantonese lotus leaf dumplings from May 12 to June 8. 6515-8855 ext 2155

Celebrate Beijing

Shangri-La's Kerry Center Hotel, Beijing will hold a two-week celebration from May 15-30 including entertainment, cooking classes, new Chinese signature dishes, "bar-verages" and sweets. Centro presents five new signature cocktails, Horizon Chinese Restaurant pairs wines from Shanxi with 10-12 signature dishes, while Bento & Berries offers boxes of doughnuts and Olympic-inspired cakes. 6561-8833

(China Daily 05/10/2008 page7)