LIFE> Epicure
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LIFE> Epicure
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Have a try of classic Cantonese cuisine
(bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2008-09-19 11:23  Although Shanghai is home to a wide array of domestic Chinese delicacies, traditional Cantonese ("Yue") restaurants may not reap as many benefits of word-of-mouth exposure as their Sichuan, Dongbei or Shanghainese cousins. Many local diners equate Cantonese fare with all-you-can-eat dim sum brunches, perhaps missing out on the wealth and diversity of its more substantial offerings. At Mandarin Pavilion, classic Cantonese dining is competently displayed for those seeking more than bite-sized snacks. Our meal began with two appetizer options, one from their summer selection and another from the permanent menu. The steamed bean curd with shrimp, presented in a garnished martini glass, was basically preserved egg and silky tofu (pidan tofu) topped with a fresh prawn. We also tried marinated bean curd rolls: julienned carrot, cucumber and ginger wrapped with chewy tofu skin and topped with dried scallop strands. The shrimp and tofu was somewhat salty, while the bean curd rolls were lacking in enjoyable flavor. Both are unnecessary if your focus is on ordering larger family-style plates. The main courses – three Cantonese favorites - were the true stars of the meal. First, the Cantonese-style pan-fried beefsteak. A great take on the classic, it was extremely tender, so much so that a dull butter knife was able to slice through the meat with ease. The black pepper was not overpowering, even releasing some hints of sweetness from the beef. Next, steamed fresh fish, a staple course of any Cantonese dinner. As is customary in a proper restaurant serving seafood, the live fish is first brought to the table for the diners to approve. We chose a small Mandarin fish (gui yu), which luckily had very few bones to distract from enjoying the dish. Steamed with a simple combination of freshly sliced scallion and ginger, sweet light soy, and hot oil, the fish is presented whole, its natural flavor and freshness remaining the focal point. Usually, it is consumed directly, picking the tender white flesh from the bones while the fish smiles at you from the plate. However, Mandarin Pavilion can remove the larger bones, if requested, making the entire process less laborious (but perhaps less fun and communal). This dish, though seemingly basic, is highly recommended. Finally, we had some freshly stir-fried dou-miao vegetables, which are a good palate cleanser. Fried with fresh garlic, the light stems maintain some hints of crunchy texture and the delicate leaves are very soft. A good rule of thumb when ordering green veggies in a Chinese restaurant: ask the staff about different varieties, which can usually be requested, based on seasonal availability. Some people may enjoy the softness of dou-miao, while others prefer heartier stalks of gai-lan (Chinese broccoli) or choy sum (another type of thicker vegetable). The only misstep of the evening was a mediocre simmered chicken curry, playfully presented in an open-top “box” made of bread. While the bread was soft and chewy, the chicken curry was quite boring. Since this is not a typically Cantonese offering, diners would be forgiven for skipping it. With such tasty options as the aforementioned beefsteak and steamed fish, there is no real reason to waste valuable stomach space. We finished with a mango pudding, which tasted somewhat artificial, but was pleasantly creamy and included chunks of mango for good measure. Like most Cantonese desserts, the stress is on the sweet, so dessert-lovers can rest easy with the knowledge that there is something sugary waiting at the end of the meal. Of course, for those who still need their fix of weekend dim sum, Mandarin Pavilion does offer an all-you-can-eat deal for 88 RMB (plus a 15% service charge). However, with so many other choices, a full meal of their dinner fare would provide an ample introduction to newcomers and a comforting familiarity for those in search of some good Cantonese food in Shanghai. Mandarin Pavilion (JC Mandarin Hotel) |
