Jiangxi is not attractive by nature, and is made worse by crushingly hot
summers and freezing cold winters.
But that is not stopping the area from trying to lure domestic and overseas
travelers, in a boisterous campaign to promote its glorious "Red" history. It is
where China's Red Army was born in 1927, and China's first interim Soviet-style
government was established in 1931.
In Lingdou County, the Communist Party of China ordered its troops to avoid
its then-mighty enemy, Kuomingtang troops headed by Chiang Kai Shek. In a
strategic decision, the Communists fled on what was to become known as the
glorious "Long March." Eventually, Mao Zedong prevailed and drove Chiang and his
forces to Taiwan.
In "Red" Jinggangshan Mountain last week, trekking the steps of the late
Chairman Mao and numerous revolutionary admirals -- including Zhu De and Peng
Dehuai -- I was bewildered as I encountered a stone statue of a handsome man on
a horse. The sculpture stands not far from Mao, his second wife Madame He
Zizhen, and many other famous historical figures. I knocked hard at my skull
because I could not recognize who it was, though I seriously believe I was not a
second-caliber history student in college.
Who was this man?
Tour guide Xiao Li unraveled the secret. The man depicted is Wang Zuo, a wise
and courageous figure who was once the Jinggangshan Mountain boss, commanding
hundreds of men armed with self-made rifles and cannons. Locals seem to have a
fantastic and positive memory of Wang, lauding him in romantic Robinhood-like
tales for robbing the extremely wealthy, or gunning down warriors and
distributing the loot to the poor and needy. His fate took a sudden turn when
Mao traveled to the area in 1929.
After a few encounters, Mao succeeded in persuading Wang to surrender and
merge with his troops. Wang joined the Communist Party, and was made a division
commander. The merger greatly augmented the Red Army, giving birth to China's
first Workers-Peasants Revolutionary Base in Jinggangshan Mountain. All local
officials in Jiangxi could forever boast that their land was the "cradle of
People's Republic of China."
Indeed, it was to become the first powerhouse of China's Communist Party, and
serve as the launch pad for a completely new state.
According to Li, a plenary session of senior Party officials convened in
Moscow in 1932 directed Mao and his men to cleanse the Red Army and strip it of
undisciplined, hooligan-type leaders. Mao obviously refused to remove a man who
had opened his arms to him and offered all he had, the tour guide said.
Later, however, Mao went outside the mountain area on another mission. That's
when fate and others intervened, executing the beloved Wang. He was only 34
years old when he died.
It must have been the coldest winter for Wang and his followers.
Mao admitted on several occasions after the Republic was set up in 1949 that
Wang was wrongly killed, the guide explained to us, speaking in sad and somber
tones. A woman traveler wiped her red eyes with a tissue.
The day when I visited the approximately 100-square-metre rustbelt tractor
plant in the outskirts of Nanchang City, capital of Jiangxi Province, the air
was steamy, and the land seemed to be smoking. Throngs of visitors braved the
heat to be there, because Mr. Deng Xiaoping, the great pioneer, the thinker, and
a beloved leader of this nation, had labored there with his wife, Zhuo Lin, from
1969-72.
That was when Deng experienced his so-called second "Down." In his life, Deng
had three downs and three ups, before becoming China's paramount leader in 1978
and changing the world by kicking off the modernization of China.
Considered the "second biggest capitalist within the Party" (the biggest was
then state President Liu Shaoqi), Deng was stripped of all his official titles,
including Vice Premier of the State Council, and was sent to Jiangxi to work at
that tractor plant, and only allowed limited freedoms.
Confined, watched day and night, Deng was ordered to "reform himself through
labor." Once, while already in his 60s, he fainted as a result of fatigue and
weakening health. Worse, hardly any workers there dared to speak with Deng. In
extreme loneliness, the former leader walked to and fro thousands of times in
the grassy wild backyard of the plant literally carving out a historical road
that is now called the "Xiaoping Trek."
Last week, I walked the 30-metre-or-so long road, and suddenly got a clue why
Deng became a great leader the world over. He had too much time to think about
things to do to improve China's path ahead.
Nowadays, though Jiangxi has no alluring scenery, it is economically booming.
Workers who were once Deng's colleagues said that they wouldn't want to see
people confined for their beliefs instead of criminal deeds.
Never again.
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